![]() ![]() When you've got the screws all out, pull the unit forward a couple of inches. With ALMOST everything disconnected you can go out and remove all the screws securing the RV Water Heater case into the body of the RV. ![]() You'll want to have a pan to catch that water if you can. The tank will usually hold a bit of water that is going to run out when you disconnect the lower line. Next is to disconnect the water lines from the rear of the NOW EMPTY water heater. Then, double check to make sure the propane is OFF! and Now you can Disconnect the propane line. With that uncovered you'll need to cut that grommet with a utility knife to get it out of the way. I cut it with a utility knife and then drug it out with a pair of pliers. You have to just peel that out of there to free up the line. That'll usually be sealed up with a good layer of some variety of sealant as well. The propane line is going to run out through a grommet in a hole in the case of the heater. ![]() so you don't have any Unintended Consequences! ~IF ~ you plug in and run electric MAKE SURE that you have the power to the RV Hot Water Heater shut off and blocked. ~ OR ~ you have to run your refrigerator on Electricity while you make the swap. unless you're the sort that wants to experience the Big Bang theory. I'd go and make sure the propane is shut off at the bottles first. Now you just go to disconnecting and unhooking everything. In my case I had a sacrificial anode/valve which was so plugged up it wouldn't drain! So! The first thing to do is empty the RV Water Heater Tank. I'm not so sure that hiring some so called pro beats an amateur taking his time and doing it right! :) , Improperly remounted the shocks during my Axle flip, Welded my Hitch Repair By God AWFUL up in Yellowstone and now I've caught 'em having plumbed my RV Water Heater WRONG. have your RV Hot Water Heater installed correctly.Ĭonsidering that the PRO's had built the belly of if you pay attention to what you're doing, you can save yourself a bundle of cash. did the original Installation WRONG! Took me eleven years for it to fail (Weirdly it NEVER should have worked!) The point is. I contend that if you can run a 20,000 lb rig down the road without taking out half the road signs along the way you should be able to do this job safely and well! What with wires and water lines and propane lines. When you first look at the thing if you've never got into such a job before you might be intimidated. The RV Water Heater arrived in Fort Collins a week later and we rendezvoused down there from our camp in the High Country to do the swap. If you want to see a larger pic just click on the one you want to enlarge and it will pop up in another window.* * I'm trying something different for pages like this one, starting with this page. Got the Atwood RV Water Heater for $338 bucks and Free Shipping! Suh-Wheet! opting for the LP ONLY model cut another $40 bucks or so off the price. Boondocking you can't really run a 110 Volt heater very efficiently! :) ![]() I looked around and they wanted $600 bucks and more for this lil' 6 gallon RV Water Heater! Actually the one we had also had an electric element that we have never used. had me deciding to replace rather than repair ~ and cut my losses and frustration. That combined with it being eleven years old and it having a "Fixed/non-adjustable" temperature thermostat that had gone to running excessively hot. My RV water heater was leaking and I couldn't spy where it was leaking from. Most folks who are even marginally handy can do the work of doing a job like this if they take the time to stop and think about it. Let me start from the beginning.ĭIY RV repair isn't necessarily Rocket Science. Like the guys who built your rig are often afflicted. Though, it may take a few whacks with a boot to your Brain Pan to get the sucker out of Neutral. for the First Time! Even if a Plumber You ain't! You may find that if you replace your RV Water Heater yourself ~ It will finally be installed the right way. ![]()
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